Just Hold Your Breath

I wouldn’t call myself an avid surfer, but I love to surf.  I always had dreams of catching the big wave and riding it into the shore while people applaud me.  I even hire photographers when I’m in Hawaii to catch me riding the big waves. Except, I don’t ride big waves at least not in surfing.  But what I learned from my surf instructor taught me an important lesson for the big waves I ...